Hubert Kellers Christmas in Alsace
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Keller told me. They taught us seriousness, discipline, organization, plus respect for your products and your colleagues.
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Joho added, a few days later, "They taught us to treat every customer alike. Vongerichten observed, "Life in Alsace is lived mostly around the table, and every time I think about growing up there, it keeps me grounded. Because the province was passed back and forth between France and Germany for decades, it developed a kind of fusion cooking long before the term ever entered the gastronomic glossary. Every time the flag changed, the cooking changed, too. That helped Mr. Vongerichten years later in developing his own blend of Southeast Asian and French elements, he said.
His duo of foie gras Bartholdi, named for the Alsatian sculptor who designed the Statue of Liberty, includes a foie-gras-topped duckburger on a brioche bun and a pastry-sealed terrine filled with shreds of oxtail, chunks of foie gras, diced fingerling potatoes and summer truffles, bathed in a rich, aromatic broth. This last is a variant of the traditional Alsatian stew called baeckoffe, which housewives dropped off on Mondays to be slowly cooked in the baker's oven while they did the washing.
Joho makes it with wild sea bass. Even Mr. Vongerichten, whose cooking these days has more of an Asian than an Alsatian accent, found space in a recent cookbook for a pork baeckoffe. Paul Elbling, the president of the Alsatian Chefs Association of America, said that at least 60 Alsatians now wear their toques in kitchens in this country. Husky at 52, with long, lank steel-gray hair, the jovial Mr.
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Joho "Joho" to his friends, never "Jean" stands astride the Chicago culinary heap. Charlie Trotter is there, too, the inventor of an American cooking style so complex I sometimes think he uses a computer to execute it. Joho said one night at Everest, whose broad plate-glass windows face north on a spectacular vista of twinkling lights outlining Chicago's orderly grid of streets and, far off, planes coming into O'Hare International Airport.
Leopard-spot carpeting, big mirrors and jungle murals help give the room a festive if formal air. Joho served two plates of three nibbles each to begin. Joho loves, like his famous cauliflower and caviar fendant, discontinued only in September after a year run. Just a modest sliver of foie gras, mind you: Alsace and the Midwest are both known for trenchermen, but measured portions are the rule at Everest.